Kumbakonam Divya Desams
http://newindpress.com/Sunday/sundayitems.asp?id=SET20060826083204&eTitle=Travel&rLink=0the link to a Divya Desam story (Kumbakonam-Thanjavur)
that featured in the Sunday Express today 27th August 2006
Temple CircuitAzhvaars or saint poets (there were 12 of them including the woman poet, Andaal) were ardent devotees of Vishnu. They composed verses in Tamil and were part of the Bhakti movement, which swept the country during the late medieval period. They visited temples and sang in praise of Vishnu. Such temples have come to be known as Divya Desams. The compilation of the verses in Tamil is known as Naalayira Divya Prabandam (4000 in all).
Of the 108 Divya Desams, 40 are in the Chola region (Trichy-Thanjavur-Kumbakonam belt). In today’s series, we feature the temples around Thanjavur-Kumbakonam.
Sarangapani TempleStart off with the Sarangapani temple in the heart of Kumbakonam. It is at this temple that the Vaishnavite savant Natha Muni was inspired to compile the works of the famed 4000 verses of the Azhvaars. This temple has the third tallest temple tower (150ft) after Srirangam (236ft) and Srivilliputhur (192 ft) in Tamil Nadu. It boasts of one of the biggest temple chariots in Tamil Nadu. One of the mandapams is said to have been built in the 7th century AD by the famous Pallava King Mahendra Varma. This temple was renovated by the famous Vijayanagara King Krishnadevaraya. A visit to this temple is believed to rid oneself of past sins.
Contact: 0435-2430 349
Uppiliappan Temple in ThiruvinnagarAbout 6 kms from Kumbakonam off Kaaraikal road, near Thirunageswaram, this is the only Divya Desam where the prasadam (offering) does not contain salt and hence the name ‘Uppiliappan’ (Lord without salt). The deity here is considered to be the brother of Tirupathi’s Srinivasa and hence those unable to visit Tirupathi come here. Legend has it that anyone who brings salt to this temple will go straight to hell. Some of the inscriptions here date back to the period of Rajendra Chola.
Contact: 0435 2463 385
Nachiyar Temple in ThirunaraiyurLocated about 10 kms from Kumbakonam, the Nachiyar temple at Thirunaraiyur can be reached easily from Uppiliappan temple. Every year in the month of Margazhi, there is a special procession where the deity is taken out on a stone Garuda mount. The mount is said to grow exponentially in weight with each layer. While four people are enough to carry him out of his sanctum sanctorum, as many as 64 people are required to carry him by the time he reaches the periphery of the temple.
Contact: 0435 2466 851
ThirucheraiThe Saranathan temple in Thirucherai is 5 kms from the Nachiyar Temple and is close to Kudaivasal town. This is the only Divya Desam where the deity is seen with five Goddesses (Sridevi, Bhooma Devi, Neela Devi, Maha Lakshmi and Sara Nayaki).
Contact: 0435 2468 175
Nathan TempleThe Natha Nathan temple in Nandhipura Vinnagaram is about 5 kms from Kumbakonam near Korukkai/Pateeswaram. Legend has it that Nandi performed penance here to seek atonement for insulting the Dwarapalakas (gate keepers) of Vishnu and hence the name Nandipura Vinnagaram. It is also believed that the Pallava King Nandivarma built this temple. It is said that Vishnu, who originally faced the east, turned westward to look at the spectacle of King Sibi saving a bird. An image of Nandi can be seen on one of the walls.
Contact: Prabhakara Bhattachar at 98430 95904
Pulla BoothangkudiFrom Kumbakonam, off Swami Malai, on the Kumbakonam-Thiruvaikaavur road, is Pulla Boothangkudi. This Divya Desam’s tale dates back to the Ramayana. It is believed that a parental curse can be removed if one visits this place since Rama, who had not performed the last rites for his father, made up for it by performing the Eagle King, Jatayu’s, obsequies, thus giving salvation to the bird. This is the only Divya Desam where Rama is in a reclining pose and can be seen with all his ornaments and four hands. Interestingly, Sita is not seen with him, as this temple relates to the time when he was separated from her.
Contact: Gopal Bhattachar at 94435 25365
Adhanur This temple is very close to Pulla Bhoothangkudi. Legend has it that Kamadhenu, the sacred cow (who grants all wishes), had undertaken a penance here and hence you’ll find sculptures of Kamadhenu and her daughter Nandini. It is believed that Anjaneya stayed here for a few days on his way back from Sri Lanka to Ayodhya.
Contact: Seshadri Bhattachar at 0435-2000503
Kapisthalam About 10 kms from Kumbakonam on the Thiruvayaru road, this is the only Divya Desam where Vishnu is said to have provided darshan to two animals – the Crocodile and Elephant. Legend has it that Vishnu, on his Garuda Vahanam (divine vehicle) rescued Elephant (King) Gajendra from the clutches of the Crocodile (the demon) on the banks of the river by hurling his Chakra (wheel) at the Crocodile. This episode is known as Gajendra Moksham and is enacted every year during the month of Panguni (March-April).
Contact: O S Seshadri Bhattachar at 04374-223434
Koodalur West of Kapisthalam on the road to Thiruvayaru is Thiru Koodalur, 5 kms away. It is believed that Cauvery displayed her grief to Jagathrakshagan over the impurities being being washed away at the riverbank. With the deity’s grace, Cauvery regained all her glory at this place.
Contact: Venkatesa Bhattachar at 04374-244279
Kandiyur The deity at Kandiyur, about 3 kms from Tiruvaiyaru on the Thanjavur road, is called ‘Hara Saabha Vimosana Perumal’ as Shiva was cleansed of Brahma’s curse here.
Contact: Sriram Bhattachar at 98653 02750
Thanjai Maa Mani TempleOur final stop on this journey is at three temples, within a kilometre of each other, on the banks of the Vennar river on the outskirts of Thanjavur. Legend has it that Garuda guards this place and hence there is no threat of snakes. The temples date back to the period of the Nayaks of Madurai. From Thanjavur, one can take the Rock Fort Express back to Chennai via Trichy.
How to reach Kumbakonam From Chennai, take the Rock Fort Express to Kumbakonam (via Trichy-Thanjavur). The main line to Kumbakonam via Cuddalore-Mayavaram is currently non-operational because of broad gauge conversion. There are direct buses from Chennai to Kumbakonam.
Where to stayThere are a number of economical and deluxe hotels around the Sarangapani temple.
Don’t missThe ‘Kumbakonam Degree coffee’.
Kumbakonam is also known for betel leaves
Labels: Temple Divya Desam
108 Divya Desam- Kapisthalam
Only Divya Desam where Maha Vishnu provides Darshan to two animals-Gajendra Moksham–
Krishnaaranya KshetramSituated just over 10kms from Kumbakonam on the Thiruvayaru road (about 5 kms East of Koodalur Divya Desam), Lord Gajendra Varadhan at Kapisthalam is in a reclining posture facing the East.
The story goes thus:
Raja Indirajimnan was a staunch devotee of Vishnu. He used to be so immersed in his prayers that he would forget the world around him. One day, Sage Durvasa came to see him. The Sage, renowned for his instant anger, waited for a while but with no sign of the King coming out of his prayers, became furious and cursed him thus- “The fact that you are a great devotee has made you arrogant and you have disrespected a Sage, who has come to meet you. May you turn into a mad elephant.”
Realising his folly, Indrajimnan begged for forgiveness. The Sage who is also know for showing sympathy agreed to reduce the impact of the curse stating that he would continue to be devoted to the Lord as ‘Elephant Gajendra’ and that he would one day be relieved of his curse by Vishnu himself.
Another story goes that Asura Guhu once playfully pulled the legs of Sage Agastyar while he was having bath. Angered at this act, the Sage cursed him instantly turning the Asura into a Crocodile.
Legend has it that Maha Vishnu, on his Garuda Vaahanam (a vehicle of the Lord) rescued Elephant (King) Gajendra from the clutches of the Crocodile (the Asura) on the banks of the river by hurling his Chakra at the crocodile and killing it. Thus the Raja was rid of his curse and attained Moksham.
This episode is known as Gajendra Moksham and is enacted here every year during the month of Panguni (March-April).
This is the only divya desam where the Lord provides Darshan to two animals.
It is a Praarthana Sthalam for Rahu
ThiruMazhisai Azhvaar’s only Paasuram here at Kapisthalam goes thus:
Kootramum Saara Koduvinaiyum Saara, Thee
Maatramum Saara Vagai Arindhen
Aatrankarai Kidakkum Kannan, Kadal Kidakkum Maayan,
Urai Kidakkum Ullathu Enakku(2431)
Meaning: As long as Lord Krishna, who resides in the Ocean and on the (Cauvery) riverside, resides in me, I need not fear anyone. No demon will come near me. With Krishna by my side, I know the way.
This is one of the ‘Pancha Krishna Kshetrams’ -5 Krishna Kshetrams.
(the other four are – Thiru Kannapuram, Thiru Kannamangai, Thiruvazhandur and ThiruKannangudi)
The temple is currently under the control of AG Lakshmana Moopanar’s family.
Quick Facts
Priest: O.S. Seshadri Bhattachar- 04374 223434
Agraharam
Mela Kapisthalam
Thanjavur Dist 614 203
Temple Timings: 630am-12noon and 5pm-730pm
Frequent bus services between Kumbakonam and Thiruvayaru.
Papanasam Railway Station
Labels: Temple Divya Desam
From a Cricket Umpire
Having been an umpire for over a decade now, I have faced several difficult situations- rainy mornings, bad light, dangerous pitch, threats from players to parents’ trying to influencing umpire and match fixing.
Also having played cricket for two decades and especially having captained different teams for the last 6-7 years, I have been subject to different situations- Hence have been keen to watch how different umpires handle difficult situations.
For example, 2 incidents earlier this year caught my eye, both in the India v WI series
The first one where a ball was being bowled with only one umpire on the field
and the second one involved the catch by the WI player on the boundary line when Dhoni was going helter-skelter that afternoon.
But what happened on Sunday at the Oval was truly fascinating from an umpire’s point of view and also to hear how different people viewed it. That late evening I was catching the (in)action both on TV as well the World Service TMS.
Initial reactions from most have been supportive of Pakistan and have come down heavily on Darryl Hair for his supposedly insensitive way of handling the situation. But a few are now talking about the mistakes in decision making both by the Pak team as well as their authorities. I would like to think that there will be more on these lines in the next day or two.
While I am not particularly a fan of Darryl, my view both as a cricketer as well as an umpire is that Umpires on the field of play are the ones responsible for fair play and making sure that the game is played in good spirit. And they are the ultimate authority regards decision making on the field. And simply from that point, their decisions have to be respected. Clearly that afternoon , the Pakistanis failed to respect the umpires decision and hence failed to play the game in the right spirit. I also believe that they enacted a farcical drama by coming in and out of the dressing room, leaving the commentators to speculate on every action.
There are several questions being asked:
Did he spot something(the tampering that is)
Did he warn the players
Was he sensitive enough
With all his decade long experience, did Hair foresee the macro repercussions
Could an umpire have caught something which 26 cameras haven’t
Is it racism
Is it regionalism
Those can continue to matters for debate and more eyeballs for the TV channels.
Umpires are expected to do a specific job on the field including ensuring that the game is played in true spirit and fairness. The umpires took a particular call at 230pm (they followed certain process which were in line with the laws of the game and spirit as well as according to them the Pakistanis had violated the spirit of the game by altering the condition of the ball- Whether this was true, we will know shortly- guess on Friday).
As a captain/team on the receiving side, there are clear processes/guidelines laid out- we even follow it in the lowest of leagues here in Chennai. And Pakistan team had these options.
At tea which is when the Pakistanis deemed fit to protest, they had 20 minutes to lodge an official written protest to Mr. Procter who was sitting next door and yes, watching the proceedings ball by ball.
They could have indicated in that protest letter that they would be playing under protest after tea, which would have negated all suggestions that it would have amounted to agreeing to the umpires’ decision had they come out to play after tea.
This way, they would have played the game in its true spirit.
By refusing to come out the first time, I think it was against the spirit of play
They were given a 2nd chance about 10 minutes later and again they did not turn out . It was the 2nd time they went against the spirit of play
And they completely messed it (from a spirit of play point of view) by coming out on to the field without the umpires having taken the field and thus trying to create a situation that they were ready but the umpires were not. ( The players always follow the umpires on to the field and by taking the field without the umpires, I think the players again brought the game into disrepute).
The umpires in all fairness asked both the teams to come on to the field of play ( the 2nd time) and both the umpires as well as the two batsmen waited for a minute or two for the fielders to arrive. If the Pakistanis had really wanted to only register a protest by delaying the entry into the ground, they would have entered the field when the two umpires and the batsmen went in a 2nd time. I think that is where the Pakistanis lost the plot.
And having given them a clear 2nd chance to get them back on to the field, the umpires removed the bails which meant of end of the test match.Pakistanis by coming back alone into the field sometime later made a mockery of the umpires’ decision.
I do not know whether the ball was tampered or not . I do not know who was right or wrong.
People will continue to have their views on the decision. But with the umpires having made that call to change the ball, Ul Haq’s actions should have been keeping in mind the best interests of the game of cricket. And walking in and out of the dressing room and walking in when the umpires were not in the field was not in the best interest of the game.
If the ICC are not convinced with the umpires report and after inspection of the ball, I am sure they will take necessary action against the umpires. But for Ul Haq’s action or rather inaction and the drama of that 1 hour, it is likely he will pay a heavy price. And a well deserved price as well.
Cricket in the last two decades or so has undergone tremendous change- night cricket, 20-20, TV viewership, sledging, tampering. One thing that definitely needs to be kept in place is the 'spirit of the game' and the players( the Captain) cannot shy away from this responsibility.
Labels: Cricket Tales
108 Divya Desam- PullaBhoothangkudi
Divya DesamsSaint Poets Azhvaars (there were 12 of them including Andaal) were ardent devotees of Vishnu. These saint poets composed verses in Tamil and revitalized the religious spirit sparking off a renewal of devotional worship, referred to as the Bhakti movement. The Azhvaars visited Vishnu temples and sung praises in the name of the Lord. Such temples have come to be known as Divya Desams. The compilation of the verses (known as Paasurams) is the revered Naalayira Divya Prabandam(4000 verses)
There are 108 Divya Desams in all, out of which over 80 are in Tamil Nadu. 40 of these temples are in the Chola region (Trichy-Thanjavur-Kumbakonam belt), 22 are in the Kanchipuram-Chennai region, 2 in Nadu Naadu(Cuddalore….) and 18 in Pandya Kingdom – Madurai/Tirunelveli belt.
There are 13 in Kerala and 11 in North India.
(2 are out of the world)
In these temples, Vishnu is represented usually in one of three postures – reclining(Sayanam), seated(Amarntha) or standing(Ninra) posture.
Thiru Mangai Azhvaar has sung praise of the lord in 86 Divya Desams followed by Nammazhvaar in 37 Divya Desams.
Among the temples where maximum number of Azhvaars have sung praises, Srirangam leads with 11 Azhvaars having sung praise , followed by Tirupathi, where 10 Azhvaars have sung praise of the Lord and Kumbakonam Sarangapani( 7 Azhvaars).
In the Divya Desam special, we take you on a trip to each of these Divya Desams
1. Pulla Boothangkudi - Liberation from Parental Curse -Jataayu Moksham
Situated about 10kms from Kumbakonam, this Divya Desam’s legendary tale dates back to the time of Ramayana.
In search of Sita, Raama reaches this place to the cries of the Eagle King Jataayu, which was breathing its last. The Eagle King, an old friend of King Dasharatha (father of Raama) had fought a valiant battle trying to rescue Sita from Raavana, before the Lankan king finally cut off both its wings. Lying in pain and unable to fly any further, the bird breathed its last uttering the words “ Raama Raama” and informing him that Sita had been taken away by Raavana.
Legend has it that Raama, who had not been able to perform the last rites for his father as he was away in the forest, derived some consolation by performing his obsequies and giving moksham to the Bird. In the Raamayana, this episode is referred to as the death of the 2nd father.It is believed that those who failed to perform last rites for their father(parents) will get liberation from their ‘parental curse’ (Pithru Saabham Nivarthi) if they visit this temple.
While performing the last rites, Raama felt the absence of Sita. It is believed that Goddess Lakshmi came out of the Golden Lotus temple tank to stand by his side while he performed the last rites for the bird. Hence, Thaayar here is called Potraamaraiyaal.
The story also goes that Thirumangai Alwar who passed that way did not take notice of a tired Raama, who was relaxing in a sleeping posture under the tree after performing the last rites, and ignored the Lord mistaking him for a Kshatriya.
Realising this, Raama gave darshan to Thirumangai Alwar in ‘Full Divine Form’- with Conch- Disc and four hands.
Thirumangai Alwar starts his 10 Pasurams here with the verse that reads “ I have passed the Lord without realizing who HE is…” – ‘Arivathariyaan Anaithu Ulagum Udayaan Ennai Aal Udayaan……………Pulla Bhoothang Kudi thaane."
This is the only temple where Raama is in the reclining posture with all his ornaments and 4 hands. Sita is not seen with the moolavar, as this temple relates to the time when Raama is separated from her.
Many devotees have got employment after visiting Yoga Narasimhar (a separate sannadhi within the temple), so much so that the devotees have named it the Udyoga Narasimhar.
This temple is administered by Ahobila Matam.
Quick Facts about Pulla Bhoothangkudi:
Located about 10kms from Kumbakonam and 4kms from Swami Malai on the Thiru Vaikaavoor Road between Cauvery and Coloroon rivers
Main Deity- Valvil Ramar
Goddess- Potraamaraiyaal
Mangalasaasanam- Thirumangai Alwar – 10 Paasurams (1348-1357)
Local Bus Nos. 12 and 30 ply from Kumbakonam to Pulla bhoothangkudi (via Swami Malai) on way to Thiruvaikaavoor
Temple Timing - 730am-1230pm and 4pm-730pm
Priest- Gopal Bhattachar/
Address: 5/17 Sannadhi Street Pullamboothangkudi (SO)
Swami Malai -612 301
Tel No. 94435 25365
Staying Facility:
Ahobilam Matam Guest House next to the temple with bath/toilet facilities
A number of economical lodges are available in Kumbakonam(Rs. 150-300 price range).Also there are a few deluxe hotels(Rs. 500 plus price range) on the Big Street.
A version of this story featured in the Sunday Express in October 2005
Labels: Temple Divya Desam
Cricket Tales- 12 memorable matches/moments on the Radio
My First Five years of Cricket on the Radio
I have been listening to cricket commentaries on the radio since 1978-79. I was such a crazy radio listener that even after the advent of live cricket on the TV, I continue to listen to commentaries on the radio. These include Sri Lanka Broadcasting Corporation, Radio Pakistan, Radio Australia, BBC and of course our own All India Radio(AIR) .
Here’s a recollection of some of my favourite moments on the radio :
1.Tamil Commentary on Alvin Kallicharan’s 98 in 1979 Pongal test
My first recollections of listening to cricket on the radio date back to 1978-79 and to a weakened West Indies’ (WI’s main players were playing the Packer series in Australia) visit for a 6 test series in India. The traditional Pongal test in Madras had a unique offering for players- The TNCA had decided to reward players - those who scored a century or took 5 wkts.
I remember listening to the dismissal of Alvin Kallicharan the visiting captain just 2 runs short of a century off Venkat’s bowling. The sporting(and knowledgeable) crowd, that Chepauk was known for, felt sad for Kalli, as described by our Tamil commentators, among whom Ramamoorthy and ‘Expert’ Rangachari were my favourites. Kallicharan had had played a brilliant knock under pressure. My other favourite WI cricketer Hilary Anglo Gomes fought it out in the 2nd innings with 92. India won that test on a nerve wrecking day 4 to take the lead in that series.
Despite playing a 2nd string X1, the WI had fought tooth and nail in that series. A few new players were discovered in that series (Larry Gomes, Sylvestor Clarke, Vanburn Holder, Faoud Bacchus). Kallicharan had fought gallantly against a strong Indian team and led his rather raw team well, but with the return of the first team players, he lost his captaincy and shortly Kalli and Clarke went to South Africa on the rebel tour and never played for the Windies again.
2. David Gower’s double hundred -The English Summer of 1979 under Venkat
Later that same year, I listened to my first overseas cricket commentary -this time again on AIR.
Indians were visiting England in the 2nd half of the English Summer (after the World Cup disaster- India had even lost to Sri Lanka in WC 1979) under Venkataraghavan and we had our AIR team taking us through ball by ball (I think it was Suresh Saraiya and Ravi Chaturvedi) the entire series. The moments I remember distinctly on that tour was the emergence of a young David Gower with a double hundred in the first test of the series.
(Despite the advent of Harsha Bhogle in the 1990s as a radio commentator, my AIR favourites remain Suresh Saraiya and Ravi Chaturvedi for the excitement they brought me, at a time when I didn’t have TV at my home)
3. Karsan Ghavri’s 2 in 2 balls - Alan McGilvary and Radio Australia-1980-81-India in Australia
My earliest memories of Radio Australia date back to this series. I was greatly excited to wake up at 530am on Friday morning of the 1981 New Year Sydney test match-the first in the series… to listen to Alan McGilvary, Jim Maxwell and Dennis Compty along with experts from Norman O’Neil. I remember listening to every single ball of the Greg Chappell double hundred, to the Dennis Lillee vs Gavaskar fight, to Sandeep Patil’s brilliant knock and felling by Len Pascoe and to every ball on that final morning of the 3rd test when Kapil Dev bundled out a strong Aussie batting line up.
I particularly remember running home(10minutes at a stretch) at the ring of the lunch bell on the penultimate day of the Melbourne test to listen to the last few overs of day 4 when Karsan Ghavri removed John Dyson and Greg Chappell in successive balls. I also remember a class mate of mine-Subash(Chandra Bose)- who was also a big radio fan and we both discussed, that afternoon, the possibility of an India win the next day, especially with Greg Chappell gone.
From that year for the next 15 years or so, the mornings of November to February were spent with the little 1955 National Panasonic transistor. I listened to every single test played in Australia till Radio Australia finally stopped broadcasting to India in the mid/late 1990s…
(almost 20 years later, I had the opportunity to meet Jim Maxwell, Tim Lain and Mike Coward in Bombay on the eve of the India-Aus 2001 test)
4. Waking up at 4am to listen to the Wellington test in 1981
I was studying in Coimbatore then. It was my cousin’s wedding (She is currently in Dubai-interviewing - leading personalities - and writing for leading publications around the world) in Madras. There were about 10 of us(relatives) who took the night train to Madras. While all were asleep the next morning, I (9 year boy) was up by 4am to listen, on the Blue Mountain Express, to India’s tense run chase (Kapil had brought India back with a terrific 2nd innings bowling performance to bundle out NZ for 100 the previous day). Sandeep Patil seemed to keep India in the hunt for a while that morning but consistent Kiwi bowling helped them win by 50 odd runs. The test series was also of special interest to me as it was the series where Tirumalai Echambadi Srinivasan made his one and only test appearance. It was said that he had a great technique but hearsay has it that he didn’t get along well with Sunny Sir and that was the end of it for this TN lad.
5. Botham’s Ashes on TMS
My earliest memories of cricket on the BBC World Service goes back to this series-the famous Botham’s Ashes of 1981. Beginning that year, for the next 15 years till BBC stopped live TMS to India, I listened year on year to the TMS (Test Match Special) team including Peter Baxter’s ‘Old Test’ highlights during Lunch break( in which I had listened to some memorable test matches of 1960s and 1970s). I distinctly remember Dirk Wellham (one of my favourite Aussie players) on debut in the final test of the series struggle on 99, including being dropped , before finally reaching a debut hundred. He couldn’t keep up his debut performance and soon lost his test place.
6. Jeff Dujon’s debut as a batsman for the WI
I remember, vividly, listening to Radio Australia - the 1981-82 Australian Summer
The first test of the summer saw Pakistan, a team that included Javed, Majid, Wasim Raja and Imran in the middle order, being bundled out on a Saturday afternoon for 62 at Perth.
2nd half of that summer, I listened with great interest the emergence of Jeff Dujon(one who later was to become an all time great wicket keeper)- He started off his career as a batsman (Deryck Murray was the keeper in his debut test) with four successive knocks of 40 plus and a fifty in his fifth innings and I remember listening to each of these knocks. An elegant and stylish batsman and a gentleman cricketer, Jeffery Dujon was to become one of my favourite WI cricketer of the 1980s and 90s.
It was a well fought series and I enjoyed for the first time on the radio the battle between Lillee/Thommo - Richards/Lloyd and Roberts/Holding - Hughes/Greg Chappell- a series that ended 1-1.
7. Commentary in 3 languages- September 1982
My first memories of Sri Lanka Broadcasting Corporation was an unofficial series that a 2nd string Australia played there- John Dyson, Yallop etc.
Though played in Madras, I listened on SL BC Sri Lanka’s first ever test against India, the test where Roy Dias scored two splendid gems and Mendis hit a six to reach his hundred. The commentary was in English and Sinhala with Tamil commentator mentioning the score in Tamil at the end of every over-possibly the only country where commentary for a cricket match took place in 3 languages.
Those days SL BC used to broadcast a sports round every day between 345pm and 4pm called ‘Vilaayatu Arangam’. For many years, I used to listen to commentary on SL BC including domestic matches played in Sri Lanka.
8. A Great catch to end the Melbourne Test Match-December 1982
Botham’s heroics had helped England retain the Ashes a year and half ago. Now Aussies were at it in their home territory seeking revenge. England had a new captain in Bob Willis. Australia had taken a 2-0 lead after 3 tests and the two teams arrived in Melbourne for the boxing day test match. The test began on a Sunday.
After a very even first innings, Australia had taken a slender 3 run lead. England got off to a shaky start in the 2nd innings but crucial knocks late by Pringle and Taylor( he was 41 years when he played this knock) took England past 280 which seemed unlikely at one point, when Botham was out.
Set 292 to win, Australia looked well on its way with a 4th wicket century partnership between inform Hughes and David Hookes. But Australia suffered a sensational mid afternoon collapse on Day 4 with newcomer Norman Cowans ripping the middle order. With 70 odd left to get, Australia just had the gritty AB, who I admired right from his debut series against England in 1979-80 and Thommo(he was rarely fiery with the bat). It was an afternoon/evening of exciting cricket commentary on Radio Australia with the Aussies fighting back. Bob Willis, as the Radio Australia experts explained during that last session on day 4, adopted a very negative tactic giving away easy singles to Border, who had till that day struggled in the series with an highest score of 30 odd in the four tests.
Thommo somehow survived the day with Australia requiring about 30 to win on the final day but with just the last pair at the crease and with Allan Border still fighting to regain his form in the series.
The final morning was a tense affair. I was with the transistor sitting on the steps to the first floor at my house in Coimbatore. It looked like Aussies would do it that 5th morning with Border battling it out and managing his first half century of the series.
With 3 runs to win, Botham found Thomson’s edge and to his dismay found Tavare grasping the opportunity only to find Geoff Miller running behind to take the rebound behind Tavare. It left AB heartbroken. It was a classic catch to end the test match- a win that gave England some hope(of retaining the Ashes) going into the Sydney test.
It had been my best test match commentary at that time. I missed many a heart beat that 4th afternoon and the 5th morning(early morning in India).
9. TA Shekhar’s debut - on Radio Pakistan-January 1983
I was in Udumalpet – a small town about 70kms from Coimbatore – for the pongal vacation at my grand mother’s place when I first listened to Chisti Mujahid(with his cheeky voice) on Radio Pakistan, describing each ball of that record equaling 451 run partnership between Javed Miandad and Mudassar Nazar in the 4th test of that series including the moment when Imran most(in)famously declared on that 3rd morning.
Later that series, in fact the next test match, I remember listening to Tirumalai Ananthapillai Shekhar’s (he had actually been called in half way into the series- after I think Madan Lal was injured) misery in his debut test when the Indian slip cordon let him down. And he never quite recovered from that.
10. AIR in the West Indies-1982-83 –Through the night on the radio
It was a comeback series for Venkat. Two teenage Indian spinners went there too- LS and Maninder. AIR covered that series in two parts every day. Part 1 was live ball by ball till tea and then a full ball by ball recording of the last session from 530am the next morning.
We were in Sabina Park for the first Test-those days Sabina Park was a very quick wicket( and remember was home to ‘Whispering Death’. The first time I was listening to a series in the West Indies. All excited I would do all my home work and studies by 8pm to switch on the radio around 8pm. On all the days I would listen till tea and then wake up the next morning at 530am for the post tea session.
On day five of that test,(after assistance from rain the previous day) it looked like India were easily going to save the test match. But a fiery Andy Roberts spell, immediately after tea,- he took the last 5 Indian wickets- broke the middle and later half of the Indian batting. So here I was waking up at 530am to listen to the post tea session. A WI victory- Impossible I thought but with every description of Suresh Saraiya and Ravi Chaturvedi, I was losing hope… Richards smashed the Indian attack- a half century in 30 balls and despite a late Kapil burst, the West Indians had won scoring 170 plus in just 25 overs.
The 2nd test too was a heart break. After Sandhu ripped the heart of the WI batting, (3 wkts down for 1 run), Lloyd and Gomes struck centuries to master mind the Windies recovery.
11. World Cup 1983
I was in Hyderabad at the time of the World Cup- had just moved in from Coimbatore. In fact , I was on the train to Hyderabad the day Trevor Chappell slammed a century as Australia comfortably beat India. BBC did not broadcast all matches live- We could get only a few matches on the special frequency on the world service.
Listened to that famous World Cup win on BBC World Service with Farookh Engineer, one of the expert commentators, voting Cheeka as his MOM but as it turned out Jimmy got the away for his all round performance. That night on the BBC still stands etched in my memory.
12.Another fantastic WI run chase- 1984 Lords
One and half years after a slam bang final day to beat India at Sabina Park, the West Indians repeated the feat against England. The home team had had the better of the first four days at Lords and declared on the final morning on reaching 300.
That afternoon saw exhilarating batting performance from Gordon Greenidge who raced to an unbeaten double hundred as WI chase 340 plus on the final day in just over 60 overs. That afternoon, I could visualize every shot of Greenidge with Henry Blofeld’s racy description of Greenidge’s cuts and pulls.
Labels: Cricket Tales
Travel in Tamil Nadu-Part 2
Dhanushkodi - The most beautiful get away in TN
Having spent the first half of the day in Srirangam and Trichy, the bus drive brought me to Kumbakonam by 4pm. I spent the evening visiting temples in Kumbakonam- Sarangapani, Chakrapani, Ramaswamy and Uppiliappan- the first time I was visiting these temples in over 2 decades.
By 930pm, I caught on to a Thanjavur bound bus and two hours later, I was on board a fully packed TN state corporation bus(that played some good old Tamil movie songs) to Pudukottai from Thanjavur’s just built new bus stand*(far away from the city). From the Pudukottai bus stand, I spent Rs. 20 for an auto drop to the railway station.
With little time left, I quickly took yet another unreserved ticket and was just in the nick of time to catch the Sethu Express around 1am.
For the next hour, I sat there in the unreserved compartment watching a group of guys playing cards. Traveling by ‘unreserved’ shows what life is outside the unreal PR world that I had lived in- a few of the guys were students, a few just completed college and looking for their first job and quite a few doing not so high paying jobs. And these guys had an expert comment or two on everything in life- Sachin Tendulkar to Rajnikanth, TN politics to Sri Lankan issue.
By 4amish, I was standing by the door side watching the breathtaking sight of the train moving across the fabulous Pamban bridge- a rail bridge that once used to open regularly to allow ferries to move along the water way…. And to see the longest road bridge alongside, it was a sight to behold!!! While I had heard of the Pamban bridge in the past, one really has to experience the train journey across the Pamban, especially the early morning(pre dawn) trip to feel what an asset it is to TN tourism.
Past the Pamban bridge, the train moved along slowly with the thick white sandy shores of Rameswaram along side the track.
That night train journey between Pudukottai and Rameswaram ranks as one of my best to date. Any travel within TN would be incomplete without the train journey across the Pamban bridge. Guess we will have to wait a bit for the next train journey across the Pamban bridge, with the broad gauge conversion taking place now.
A bath at the Rameswaram Railway Station, a quick visit to the RamanathaSwamy temple on the seashore and I was all set for my ‘Dhanushkodi’ exploration.
By 8am, I was all excited about the journey to Dhanushkodi. I took the local bus from Rameswaram to Dhanushkodi. It is a lovely 15km drive, not all of which bring pleasant memories - the ruins of a ravaged railway track- 1964 cyclone completely devastated Dhanushkodi including the railway station and the track. The Rama temple still stands amidst the ruins- a small road to the left leads to the temple.
The bus leaves me at the farthest part where road can take one. From there, I am led to a truly stunning experience-totally unexpected. A small open truck took 25 of us, all standing, on a 6 km drive on the hard thick white sand. The driver had to use hard card /metal board below the wheel, at several points along the route, to push the vehicle into the next yard. We were charged Rs. 25 a person then for this trip(to and fro).
Finally, we reached the southern most tip on the island at the confluence of the Indian Ocean and Bay of Bengal. The sand is white here and the seas clear blue. While most played around the beach, I sat there with thoughts exploring ways to reach other side of the shore- North Sri Lanka so to say. The Northern most tip of Sri Lanka is just about 7 nautical miles from here. I even tried asking the folks there if I could be boated into Lanka but this was summarily dismissed.
Other than the 25 of us, there were none else, except of course a few security men who put us through a complete body scan (this was said to be the place where Lankan refugees came back to Indian shores). Actually, it is scary-the tip of Dhanushkodi- its far away from the nearest road- 6 kms away from another soul. Absolute silence- Yet beautiful.
After about half hour of solitude at the BOB-IO confluence, we were back in the truck and on our way back. Chatting up with a few got me insights into what happened that dreadful day in 1964, which washed away almost everything at Dhanushkodi. There have been talks now and then of redoing the railway track to Dhanushkodi. Hopefully after the broad gauge conversion up to Rameswaram, the concerned authorities would look once again into reconstructing the Dhanushkodi line.
Dhanushkodi may not be a place for the weak hearted but for the brave tourist who like quiet getaways without the hustle and bustle of city life, this place is definitely worth a visit. Beware though of the dangers of cross border wars!!!!
To me, the 6km truck drive to the southern tip of Rameswaram will ever be etched in memory.
The bus brought me back to Rameswaram and I took the train back to Chennai later that day.
* Thanjavur was one of the first in TN to set up a bus stand away from the city. Several others have followed suit since- Tirunelveli, Chennai, Madurai…
Labels: Travel in TN
108 Divya Desam-Araiyar Sevai
Saving a rare art- Araiyar Sevai
It looks like the renowned Araiyar Sevai, a visual song and dance enactment of the ‘Paasurams’** that has been performed at the Vaishnava Divya Desams*+ for over 1000 years, is seeing a slow death. A ritual which was once performed at all the Divya Desams today exists in only three temples in Tamil Nadu- Srirangam, Srivilliputhur and Alwar Thirunagari(near Tirunelveli).
Araiyars (King of Music) are descendents of Nathamunigal, who is believed to have introduced the Araiyar Sevai. It is believed that Lord Ranganatha himself gave the Araiyars the right to perform the unique musical chanting at the temples and presented them with the cone-like red cap, two cymbals, the sacred garland (which they wear around their neck when they perform).
Araiyars have been bestowed the special right to start as well as end the Paasurams (Divya Prabhandham) in Vaishnavite temples through their special song and dance sequence.
The Araiyars first recite the Paasuram, they then explain its inner meaning and finally perform the Abhinaya, a unique art/dance performance with their hands and legs explaining the Paasurams with special musical effect.
The Araiyar Sevai requires a deep knowledge and understanding of the Paasurams. It is not an easy art, as can be seen from the fact that it takes nearly 20 years to learn and perfect the ‘Abhinaya’.
One of the special ‘Araiyar Sevai’ occasions that is of particular significance is during Vaikunta Ekadesi(the winter month of Margazhi)- The Paghal Pathu(10 days) and the Raa Pathu(10 days, when one is treated to a real spectacle with the Araiyars enacting the ‘Story of Andal’ growing into a young beautiful girl through the Abhinaya.
Will Araiyar Sevai become a thing of the past?
Of real worry is the fact that only a handful of Araiyars are keeping this most difficult art going. Their plight, especially the Araiyars at Srivilliputhur is difficult to digest for a true Vaishnavite. With no salaries, the Araiyars there are finding the going tough, making it difficult for them to even provide basic education to their children.
Says Bala Mukunda Araiyar of Srivilliputhur, who is one of the few Araiyars still practicing this difficult art, “It has been a great honour for the Araiyars to be performing the ‘Abhinaya’. I learnt from my father for over 18 years and have tried my best to keep it going and pass on my knowledge to the next generation. It will be a pity if this 1000 year old art dies because of lack of support.”
Awards have been bestowed on artists in various fields but the Araiyars have sadly been left out of this, despite delighting devotees with their unique recital of the Divya Prabhandam. One feels it is time that they were given the recognition that has been due to them for years.
Call for Help
One of the popular depiction of the Paasurams, the art of enacting the divya prabandham could be lost to the world, at least in Srivilliputhur, if immediate action is not taken. While music and dance artistes have been recognized through various art associations, even the basic financial needs of these artistes(the Araiyars), who have put their heart and soul in this devotional performance, have been ignored.
The Araiyars are looking for a face lift to the art and also a source of income that would help them keep this unique art going for future generations to enjoy.
Only time will tell if the devotees, charitable institutions, private companies as well as the Government will come together in reviving the Araiyar Sevai across the Divya Desams. It is something too precious to lose and one hopes that it is not yet late to bring the Araiyars back to their glory days. Otherwise Divya Prabhandhams and Thiru Pallandu recitals in this unique art form will be a thing of the past, soon.
The Araiyars at Srivilliputhur can be reached on 94438 67345 or email prabhuopr@gmail.com for more details.
Contributions can be sent to :
Bala Mukunda Araiyar
35 Periya Perumal West Mada Street Srivilliputhur 626 125(TN, India)
+* Azhvaars /Divya Desams – There were 12 Azhvaars including Andaal. They were saint poets and ardent devotees of Maha Vishnu. These saint poets composed verses in Tamil and revitalized the religious spirit sparking off a renewal of devotional worship, referred to as the Bhakti movement. These Azhvaars visited temples and sung praises in the name of Vishnu. Such temples have come to be known as Divya Desams and are 108 in total.
**Paasurams - the 4000 divine verses( Naalayira Divya Prabandham) of the Azhvaars
This story featured in the Sunday Express in January 2006
Labels: Temple Divya Desam
Travel in Tamil Nadu-Part 1
Maddening Travel
Part 1-Madras to Srirangam*-2001
After a tiring week at work, I decided all of a sudden one Friday evening that I would get away from Madras for a few days.
I took the unreserved coach of the Rockfort Express. As was the case then and many times in my subsequent trips, I sat next to the door in a crowded Friday night train, sleepless through the night.
(Unreserved compartments are not for hygiene freaks, neither are they for those who want a good night’s sleep on the train. However, travel in Southern Railways’ unreserved compartments+ will give in good measure, an account of how another side of India lives)
1. As the train moved through Ariyalur (this station is about 70 kms from Trichy) that night, my thoughts itched back to ‘recollections’ I had had of that fateful night in the 1950s when the then Tuticorin Express (now Pearl City) crashed at the Ariyalur river bridge (heavy rains/flooding had weakened the bridge and loosened the soil) leading to death of several people. Every time, I travel through this bridge, my heart stops for a moment.
2. The halt at Kallakudi Palanganatham around 3amish provided two interesting sidelights:
The station is famous for the protests around its name:
This station was for long called Dalmiapuram as it stands right next to the Dalmia Cements factory but for years the name evoked protests and finally some years ago the name changed to what it is today- Kallakudi Palanganatham.
b. With me handling so many IT/BPO companies and with so much talk now centering on work life at night and impact on employee health, my thoughts when the train reached this station was on the factory workers who for decades have worked tirelessly through the night in not so favourable environment, and yet without any complaints. Every time I pass this station, I find thick smoke out of the funnel on top of the factory. No body ever seemed to complain. But within years of the BPO bull run, we seem to have an over skew towards ‘issues relating to health’ and the like. For all that, BPO employees (working the nights) are having a rocking time.
3. The next station I eagerly waited for was Lalgudi**- 2 reasons- a. My father had done a little bit of his schooling there. b. There was the level crossing flyover I was watching out for.
With so much talk of flyovers and delayed deadlines, I was curious on the flyover status on this one - between Lalgudi and Toll Gate. Thankfully, its now up and running bringing to end what once (I had been on this road in the 1970s) seemed a never ending traffic bottleneck at the railway level crossing that jammed the traffic between Srirangam and Lalgudi.
Lalgudi and ahead, one can get a first glimpse of the Uchi Pillayar Koil, on the left, just as you cross the Pichandar Koil station. And then within a few seconds, you get a beautiful sight, on the right, of the Srirangam temple and several of the towers including a superb view of the ‘fully lit’ towering gopuram as the rockfort express rambles past the Coloroon bridge.
4am is the time to alight at Srirangam, a little behind schedule. A bath at the Srirangam station and I was wrapped in Veshti by 430am.Srirangam station is all buzzing-auto rickshaws and cycle rickshaws outside and the man at Vegetarian stall inside. It would surprise many, that the breakfast for the Chennai bound Pallavan Express (scheduled to reach Srirangam at 645am) is made and packed here between 430am and 630am.
After the early morning milk at the stall, I took a 10 minute walk through the streets of Srirangam to reach the main temple at 515am(the other option is to pay a fixed Rs. 20 for an auto drop right outside the temple)
Just for those who haven’t been this early to Srirangam….the island+ town is up and running by 5am…On the banks of the Cauvery, you have people taking their morning bath. On the streets, you have the residents with their early morning street kolams, the fitness enthusiasts(yes, there are quite a few morning walkers in Srirangam) have already covered the four streets around the temple and the main street opposite the temple is well lit with tea shops, prasadam stalls all open and playing the morning prayer songs. An indication of the changing scenario (read privatization) is that these days it is the FM radio that plays!!! By 530am, there are a 100 plus devotees waiting outside the temple for the doors to open.
By 6am, its time for Vishroopa Darshanam at the Ranganatha Sannadhi. Lord Ranganatha is woken up with a splendid Veena recital, played by a man whose sincerity doesn’t seem to have waned one bit in all these years. By this time, the temple elephant is already on its way from the Cauvery having brought the sacred waters for the Lord, which it splashes on the Lord with a huge roar.
It is a sight not to be missed.
Having finished the temple darshan by 8am, its now time for the special breakfast at the 40 year old venkatesa bhavan (started in 1960s). A plate of pongal, dosai and a coffee costs less than Rs. 15 but quality and service have remained the same as the one I tasted in the 1980s.
A trip to Trichy is not complete without a stroll around the Burma Bazaar (stated by many to be the ‘original Burma Bazaar’-there are many versions today of this in different cities in TN) and an ice cream(rather several ice creams) at Michaels(the costliest ice cream was still only Rs. 3.50 then) right next to the Clive’s hostel(Remember Battle of Plassey /Governor of Bengal-Yes Robert Clive stayed here. He even had a house in Trichy).
From Trichy, a 2 hour bus trip took me to Kumbakonam through Thanjavur. This is a landmark route** on the TN road map- that passes through the beautifully green BHEL plant, the huge REC campus, NIT, Vennar Bank and Papanasam.
+ Unreserved compartments in Indian Railways are generally 3 bogies –one just next to the engine in the front and two at the tail end of the train
* Srirangam is an island with Cauvery on the Southern side and Coloroon on the Northern side
**Lalgudi, a small town 20kms north of Trichy is well known in the Carnatic Music circle for bringing one of the best exponents of violin ‘Lalgudi’ Jayaraman
To be continued……………
Labels: Travel in TN
A Margazhi Trip
It was the winter month of December (the month of ‘Margazhi’ in the Tamil Calendar) – the time of the year when the traditional Tamil folks (especially the women) wake up early hours of the day to be at the temple for the recital of Tiruppavai.
(Tiruppavai is a song comprising of 30 verses, in praise of the Lord, rendered by Andal, one of the 13 Vaishnavite-followers of Vishnu- saints).
I chose to visit Srivilliputhur*, the birth place of Andal, renowned for the Tiruppavai recital, to get a first hand feel of a special event I had only heard from my grand parents.
I took the night train from Madras to Tirunelveli**, a town famous for Halwas(No trip to Tirunelveli is complete without a taste of the ‘Iruttu Kadai(
dark shop) halwa’). There are many pleasures of a train journey, one not so is of last minute passengers making a maddening rush to their compartment. And I found an alarming number this time around.
After a quickish bath, I took a 45 minute bus drive to watch the sun rise at the sea shore temple of Subramanya at Tiruchendur(50kms South East of Tirunelveli). A few hours at the beach and I continued my bus journey, onto 9 other temples called ‘ Nava Tirupathi’.
(All of these temples are within 5-10kms of each other and are a must visit for any Tirunelveli visitor-Most of these are on the banks of Tirunelveli’s famous river-The Tamaraibarani).
That night my dinner at Tirunelveli was all of 1/2 kg of Halwa, after which I took a 2 hour walk around the city, going through all the famous old streets of Tirunelveli including visiting the most famous saree shop of the town-The Pothy’s.
Tirunelveli is also famous for the round the clock road side eateries…. A walk down the railway station road after 11pm and you would find hundreds, sitting on small stools, having their ‘idlies - dosas with chutney – sambar’ for their dinner.
As I usually do during my train trips, I stayed the night at the retiring room at the Tirunelveli station
(This writer has a long term agreement with retiring rooms at all railway stations in Tamil Nadu and believes that retiring rooms are the best(and safest) place for overnight stay in TN, especially for travel freaks and for women travellers).
After a 2am wake up and bath the next morning, I took the first bus out of Tirunelveli for a 2 hour drive to Srivilliputhur.
(For those not too familiar with transport facilities down South, TN has got by far the best moffusil bus transport service in the country in terms of connectivity, frequency and round the clock service-All places in TN have 24 hour bus connectivity).
By 4am that morning (that was the time I reached my destination),the small temple town of Srivilliputhur was already buzzing with activity, with one bunch of young girls and boys running around to make their morning flower sale and another bunch for other pooja articles.
For an hour, I was a witness to the loud musical recital of Tiruppavai (that was the purpose of my trip) by 15 plus temple priests, all clad in dhotis. Moved by this recital and wanting to understand more, I chatted up with the priests about the Tiruppavai and its significance, the unique way of chanting these songs and the visual song and dance enactment of the ‘Paasurams’(the 4000 divine songs/hymns of Vaishnavite Saints) that is rendered through the month of Margazhi at this temple by Araiyars(King of Songs).
As I dug deeper and deeper into the subject, questioning and probing the priests (the art of questioning and extracting information was put to full use that day), there were insights of the temple culture and traditions that dated back to 500 AD- art forms that were slowly vanishing in this fast paced world, artistes who were in dire straits with very little money to even feed their family and a temple song & dance service, once performed regularly in over 100 temples- now in just three- seeing a slow death.
My chat lasted almost 6 hours (that would not be a surprise to those who know me well!!!) and I must confess that those were the best ‘hours’ I had spent in a long long time. In those few hours, I truly transcended into another world- a world of peace and solitude.
Following a story that I wrote that fortnight, the priest wrote in to me via the almost non-existent post card, that he had received very many enquiries about the revival of the traditional temple art form called ‘Araiyar Seva’ from across South India including funding contributions for the artistes.
Three months hence, the educational requirements of the kids of this artist have been taken care of by a corporate chieftain, one who to this day prefers anonymity on this front.
A quiet early morning peace seeking temple trip had transformed into something quite unexpected- a discussion that resulted in gaining insights into less known facts about the temple culture of Tamil Nadu, culminating in contributions to the (financially) poor priests and the revival of the song and dance rendering of vedic hymns, a ritual that had been practised for over 1200 years.
By that evening, another bus trip had brought me to the temple town of Madurai***+
I spent an hour at the famous Meenakshi Amman Temple and by 9pm I was fast asleep in the night train I took back to Madras.
*Srivilliputhur is about 75kms south west of Madurai and is a very small town. Also, known for Milk Bedas
** Tirunelveli is about 700 kms from Madras and is a night’s journey from Madras (about 11 hours)- Another 100 kms down South from Tirunelveli and you would reach Kanyakumari, the southern tip of India
***Madurai was once the capital of the Pandya Kingdom and is about 500kms from Madras on the Madras- Kanyakumari route
+In the 1980s, Vaigai Express (Madras- Madurai super fast day express) was one of the fastest trains in South India, the ‘Deccan Queen’ of the South…
Labels: Travel in TN
