Sunday, August 27, 2006

Kumbakonam Divya Desams














http://newindpress.com/Sunday/sundayitems.asp?id=SET20060826083204&eTitle=Travel&rLink=0

the link to a Divya Desam story (Kumbakonam-Thanjavur)
that featured in the Sunday Express today 27th August 2006


Temple Circuit

Azhvaars or saint poets (there were 12 of them including the woman poet, Andaal) were ardent devotees of Vishnu. They composed verses in Tamil and were part of the Bhakti movement, which swept the country during the late medieval period. They visited temples and sang in praise of Vishnu. Such temples have come to be known as Divya Desams. The compilation of the verses in Tamil is known as Naalayira Divya Prabandam (4000 in all).

Of the 108 Divya Desams, 40 are in the Chola region (Trichy-Thanjavur-Kumbakonam belt). In today’s series, we feature the temples around Thanjavur-Kumbakonam.

Sarangapani Temple

Start off with the Sarangapani temple in the heart of Kumbakonam. It is at this temple that the Vaishnavite savant Natha Muni was inspired to compile the works of the famed 4000 verses of the Azhvaars. This temple has the third tallest temple tower (150ft) after Srirangam (236ft) and Srivilliputhur (192 ft) in Tamil Nadu. It boasts of one of the biggest temple chariots in Tamil Nadu. One of the mandapams is said to have been built in the 7th century AD by the famous Pallava King Mahendra Varma. This temple was renovated by the famous Vijayanagara King Krishnadevaraya. A visit to this temple is believed to rid oneself of past sins.

Contact: 0435-2430 349

Uppiliappan Temple in Thiruvinnagar

About 6 kms from Kumbakonam off Kaaraikal road, near Thirunageswaram, this is the only Divya Desam where the prasadam (offering) does not contain salt and hence the name ‘Uppiliappan’ (Lord without salt). The deity here is considered to be the brother of Tirupathi’s Srinivasa and hence those unable to visit Tirupathi come here. Legend has it that anyone who brings salt to this temple will go straight to hell. Some of the inscriptions here date back to the period of Rajendra Chola.

Contact: 0435 2463 385

Nachiyar Temple in Thirunaraiyur

Located about 10 kms from Kumbakonam, the Nachiyar temple at Thirunaraiyur can be reached easily from Uppiliappan temple. Every year in the month of Margazhi, there is a special procession where the deity is taken out on a stone Garuda mount. The mount is said to grow exponentially in weight with each layer. While four people are enough to carry him out of his sanctum sanctorum, as many as 64 people are required to carry him by the time he reaches the periphery of the temple.

Contact: 0435 2466 851

Thirucherai

The Saranathan temple in Thirucherai is 5 kms from the Nachiyar Temple and is close to Kudaivasal town. This is the only Divya Desam where the deity is seen with five Goddesses (Sridevi, Bhooma Devi, Neela Devi, Maha Lakshmi and Sara Nayaki).

Contact: 0435 2468 175

Nathan Temple

The Natha Nathan temple in Nandhipura Vinnagaram is about 5 kms from Kumbakonam near Korukkai/Pateeswaram. Legend has it that Nandi performed penance here to seek atonement for insulting the Dwarapalakas (gate keepers) of Vishnu and hence the name Nandipura Vinnagaram. It is also believed that the Pallava King Nandivarma built this temple. It is said that Vishnu, who originally faced the east, turned westward to look at the spectacle of King Sibi saving a bird. An image of Nandi can be seen on one of the walls.

Contact: Prabhakara Bhattachar at 98430 95904

Pulla Boothangkudi

From Kumbakonam, off Swami Malai, on the Kumbakonam-Thiruvaikaavur road, is Pulla Boothangkudi. This Divya Desam’s tale dates back to the Ramayana. It is believed that a parental curse can be removed if one visits this place since Rama, who had not performed the last rites for his father, made up for it by performing the Eagle King, Jatayu’s, obsequies, thus giving salvation to the bird. This is the only Divya Desam where Rama is in a reclining pose and can be seen with all his ornaments and four hands. Interestingly, Sita is not seen with him, as this temple relates to the time when he was separated from her.

Contact: Gopal Bhattachar at 94435 25365

Adhanur

This temple is very close to Pulla Bhoothangkudi. Legend has it that Kamadhenu, the sacred cow (who grants all wishes), had undertaken a penance here and hence you’ll find sculptures of Kamadhenu and her daughter Nandini. It is believed that Anjaneya stayed here for a few days on his way back from Sri Lanka to Ayodhya.

Contact: Seshadri Bhattachar at 0435-2000503

Kapisthalam

About 10 kms from Kumbakonam on the Thiruvayaru road, this is the only Divya Desam where Vishnu is said to have provided darshan to two animals – the Crocodile and Elephant. Legend has it that Vishnu, on his Garuda Vahanam (divine vehicle) rescued Elephant (King) Gajendra from the clutches of the Crocodile (the demon) on the banks of the river by hurling his Chakra (wheel) at the Crocodile. This episode is known as Gajendra Moksham and is enacted every year during the month of Panguni (March-April).

Contact: O S Seshadri Bhattachar at 04374-223434

Koodalur

West of Kapisthalam on the road to Thiruvayaru is Thiru Koodalur, 5 kms away. It is believed that Cauvery displayed her grief to Jagathrakshagan over the impurities being being washed away at the riverbank. With the deity’s grace, Cauvery regained all her glory at this place.

Contact: Venkatesa Bhattachar at 04374-244279

Kandiyur

The deity at Kandiyur, about 3 kms from Tiruvaiyaru on the Thanjavur road, is called ‘Hara Saabha Vimosana Perumal’ as Shiva was cleansed of Brahma’s curse here.

Contact: Sriram Bhattachar at 98653 02750

Thanjai Maa Mani Temple

Our final stop on this journey is at three temples, within a kilometre of each other, on the banks of the Vennar river on the outskirts of Thanjavur. Legend has it that Garuda guards this place and hence there is no threat of snakes. The temples date back to the period of the Nayaks of Madurai. From Thanjavur, one can take the Rock Fort Express back to Chennai via Trichy.

How to reach Kumbakonam

From Chennai, take the Rock Fort Express to Kumbakonam (via Trichy-Thanjavur). The main line to Kumbakonam via Cuddalore-Mayavaram is currently non-operational because of broad gauge conversion. There are direct buses from Chennai to Kumbakonam.

Where to stay

There are a number of economical and deluxe hotels around the Sarangapani temple.

Don’t miss

The ‘Kumbakonam Degree coffee’.
Kumbakonam is also known for betel leaves

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2 Comments:

At December 14, 2008 8:01 pm, Blogger K.Seshadri said...

What is the best way to cover all the temples mentioned here in the shortest possible time. Can there be an efficient route plan?
What about local buses, or should one hire a taxi and how much would that cost?
Seshadri

 
At December 15, 2008 10:15 am, Blogger PRabhu S said...

Dear Shri Seshadri,

Hi! Thanks for the mail.

Can you check the link below(the blog where I now write) for a route map of the divya desams, which may prove useful
http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2007/06/divya-desams-around-kumbakonam.html

Reg covering these temples, there are buses to each of these Divya Desams but will be better to take a taxi.
(I have myself not used taxi even once to cover these, but it can get tiring and one may have to walk a distance from the bus stop to the temple in a few cases)

You can reach Thanjavur/Kumbakonam by Rock Fort Express(Retiring room at Thanjavur is being renovated and is very comfortable to stay)

Can I have your email id and will mail you the specific details there

Here is a broad approach plan

First Half
Thanjai Maa Mani(3 temples next to each other), Kandiyur, Koodalur, Kapisthalam and Pullabhoothangudi & Athanur(6 Divya Desams) can be covered in one half of the day if you start at 630am from Thanjavur.

2nd Half of the day-4pm-8pm
You can visit Nathan Koil(local auto will charge about 150/-), Sarangapani, Ramaswamy and Chakrapani koils in Kumbakonam

Next day Morning
You can take another taxi the next morning from Kumbakonam at 6am to Oppiliappan, Nachiar Koil, ThiruCherai and ThiruKannamangai.

Next day 2nd half
You could look at visiting Therezhendur, Sirupuliyur and Thiru Indhalur

Do check out www.prtraveller.blogspot.com
for more on temples around kumbakonam and Mayavarm

Regards
Prabhu

 

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